BIO SKIN CARE

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA).

His interest in dermatology is that it has good penetration through the skin and destroys the fat cells that bind the surface of the epidermis. Many dermatologists have used mostly American as salicylic acid peel. Studies conducted in mice have shown that salicylic acid destroys the outer layers of the epidermis, which was followed by a stimulation of epidermal cells and fibroblasts.

Formulations

A wide variety of formulations containing salicylic acid was used as peels. They include formulations of 50% in an ointment or 10, 20 and 30% in ethanol.
Recently the U.S. products are already ready to use at concentrations of 20 to 30%.

Indications.

The effectiveness of salicylic acid peels have been proven in several studies. Already 30 years ago, an ointment with salicylic acid and 50% had given very good results in the treatment of freckles, dark spots and aging of the backs of hands. It took however until the late 1990s that this kind of technical obscurity. In 1999, an American doctor showed good efficacy of peels at 20 and 30% salicylic acid in 25 patients with dark skin or acne, a melasma, dark spots or post-inflammatory. . Korean doctors then confirmed these results in the treatment of acne. The peel was generally well tolerated with few side effects.

Thus indications of salicylic acid peels can be effective on black skin and dark matte for the treatment of acne, rosacea, melasma and post inflammatory spots.

Cons-indications.

In general, there are few cons-indications for this type of peel, because they are well tolerated by all skin types (clear to black).

* Allergies to salicylic acid (to differentiate from aspirin is acetylsalicylic acid)
* Subjects can not understand the course of treatment and its risks
* Subjects with skin inflammation (irritation, eczema, etc..) Or an infection of the areas to be treated
* Pregnancy
* Treatment with isotretinoin (eg Roaccutane) completed less than 6 months before

Preparing the skin before peeling.

Acne Treatments (trétin oïne, adapalene) must be stopped two weeks before, because they weaken the skin and increase penetration of salicylic acid in the skin. Indeed, there may be a greater risk of complications such as redness important, scaling and post-inflammatory pigmentation.

The cosmetic base of fruit acids (glycolic acid), ammonium lactate may be prescribed for 4 weeks to prepare the skin to peel, because they are less aggressive. On dark skin, a preparation of hydroquinone 4% or more (5-10%) must be used to reduce melanin synthesis and reduce the risk of pigmentation post-peel. Other bleaching agents are less effective (kojic acid, arbutin, liquorice).

Peeling technique.

Although this generally poses no peeling no problem, it is impossible to predict whether a person shall be no complications such as minor burns or post-inflammatory pigmentation.

The peel has a classic concentration of salicylic acid from 20 to 30% in an alcohol solution. The frequency of meetings will be spaced from 2 to 4 weeks. In general the maximum results are obtained after March-June peels.

In general, we start with a concentration of 20% in order to evaluate the sensitivity and responsiveness of the skin.

Before treatment, the face is cleaned with alcohol and / or acetone to remove fatty substances present on the surface of the skin.

The peel is then applied in 2 or 3 layers, or with a sponge, gauze or a cotton swab. We start the application in the middle of the cheek by continuing to edge and ending with the periorbital areas, chin and forehead. The peel is left in place for 3 to 5 minutes. During this period, patients usually feel a tingling or burning disappears in 1-3 minutes.

Thirty seconds to 1 minute after the start of the application, salicylic acid forms a white precipitate which is due to its crystallization. It should not be confused with the “freezing” or blanching of the skin which is due to clumping of the protein: in this case, scabs may appear in the aftermath of the peel. This result may however be sought in the treatment of skin aging. For the treatment of acne and black spots, this result should be avoided at most.

After 3-5 minutes, the peel is neutralized with water and the precipitate of salicylic acid remaining is removed with a mild detergent. Then a moisturizer is applied to the face.

Aftercare peels and possible complications.

In the following days, mild cleansers and moisturizers will be used until no irritation of the peel. Then, treatments depigmenting or anti-acne treatments may be resumed.

The occurrence of redness or excessive desquamation is processed by a dermocorticoid. They are indeed very effective in eliminating inflammation and reduce the risk of occurrence of brown or black spots. They always disappear by the use of hydroquinone.

Side effects are mild and transient, and therefore, it is essential to early treatment.

In the Korean study on 35 patients, 8.8% experienced persistent redness over 2 days, 1 / 3 a dry skin, 17.6% had intense defamation disappeared in 7-10 days 11.7% had scabs. In any case, it was apparent scars of post-inflammatory pigmentation spots.

In the U.S. study of 25 patients (20 African Americans and Hispanics 5), only mild side effects were apparent: 1 subject had made crusts and a decrease in skin color which disappeared in 1 week 3 had had a dry skin and hyperpigmentation which disappeared in 7-14 days.

The benefits of salicylic acid peels are:

* A little risky treatment on dark skin, black matt and
* An excellent peel for the treatment of acne
* An improvement in oiliness and appearance of rough skin
* The disadvantages are a limited depth of penetration (superficial peel) which makes it very effective in the treatment of skin aging.